BLACKBERRY AND CRÈME FRAÎCHE VACHERIN
EVERY SEASON we feature a different kind of vacherin, one of my childhood favorite desserts. I see it as almost a cross between a pavlova and an ice cream sandwich, with less whipped cream and more sorbet, but always with meringue for the crunch. This particular one, with blackberry-infused meringue and crème fraîche–blackberry swirled sorbet, may be my all-time favorite. Clouds of crème fraîche coiffe a thin disc made of meringue, while blackberry pearls float on a bed of panna cotta.
Servings
6
Servings
6
Ingredients
Blackberry Puree (makes 2 cups)
Crunchy Blackberry Meringue
Blackberry Sorbet
Crème Fraîche Sorbet
Blackberry Pearls and Gelée
Vanilla Panna Cotta
Whipped Crème Fraîche
To Finish
Instructions
For the Blackberry Puree
  1. Fill one-third of a medium saucepan with water and bring to a simmer. In a heatproof bowl, toss the berries with the sugar, cover with plastic wrap, and place over the simmering water. Heat the berries until they release their juices, about 1 hour. Line a fine-meshed sieve with cheesecloth, place over a bowl, and pour in the berry mixture. Strain well (do not press the berries or the juice will turn cloudy). Measure 1½ cups juice, chill, and reserve for the pearls and gelée.
  2. Pour the strained berries with any remaining juice into a bowl and puree with a hand blender on its lowest setting; avoid chopping up the bitter seeds. Pass the puree through a fine-meshed sieve and reserve for the sorbet and meringue.
For the Crunchy Blackberry Meringue
  1. Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line two 13 × 18-inch baking sheets with Silpats.
  2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk, whip the egg whites on medium speed until frothy, about 30 seconds. While continuing to whip, add one-third of the granulated sugar. Whip 30 more seconds, add the remaining granulated sugar, and continue whipping until soft peaks form. With a rubber spatula, fold in the powdered sugar in 3 additions until well combined. Fold in the blackberry puree until no streaks remain. Using a 2½-inch-diameter round plastic stencil and a small offset spatula, spread the mixture evenly onto the Silpat. Repeat to make 10 circles per tray.
  3. Transfer the remaining meringue to a piping bag and cut a small hole at the tip. Pipe small dots of the meringue around the circles on the Silpats.
  4. Bake for 3 hours, or until the meringues are crisp. While still warm, loosen the meringues from the Silpat with an offset spatula (this makes extra since they are fragile). Finish cooling, and store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
For the Blackberry Sorbet
  1. In a medium saucepan, combine 5 tablespoons water, the sugar, and the glucose powder. Bring to a simmer, then transfer to a bowl set over ice and stir until well chilled. Whisk in the blackberry puree. Pass through a fine-meshed sieve and spin in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
For the Crème Fraîche Sorbet
  1. In a medium saucepan, whisk to combine ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon water, the sugar, and the glucose powder and bring to a simmer. Set aside to cool and whisk in the crème fraîche, yogurt, and lemon juice. Pass through a fine-meshed sieve into a bowl set over ice. Stir until well chilled and spin in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Assembling the Sorbets
  1. For a swirling effect, stir each sorbet to reach soft-serve consistency. Fill a piping bag with alternating spoonfuls of each flavor. Pipe the sorbets into at least six 2½-inch-diameter and ¾-inch-tall metal ring molds, or muffin tins lined with plastic wrap. Flatten the surfaces with a small offset spatula. Freeze until solid.
For the Blackberry Pearls and Gelée
  1. Soak the gelatin sheets in ice water for 10 minutes, then squeeze dry.
  2. In a small bowl, mix the sugar with the agar-agar powder. In a small saucepan, bring the blackberry juice to a simmer, add the sugar mixture, and cook, while whisking, for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and stir in the gelatin. Pour enough of the mixture onto a flat, rimmed plate to reach about ⅛-inch thickness, and transfer to the refrigerator to set.
  3. Transfer the remaining mixture to a squeeze bottle with a fine tip. Cool to room temperature. If the frozen grapeseed oil has coagulated, let it sit at room temperature just until it becomes liquid again, about 5 minutes. Squeeze the blackberry mixture from the bottle in droplets into the cold oil; they will form firm pearls as they sink into the oil. Work quickly so the oil doesn’t get too warm (or the droplets won’t set). Refrigerate for 20 minutes, then pour the oil through a fine-meshed sieve into a clean, dry container (the oil can be reused). Rinse the pearls in the sieve with cold running water. Store, chilled.
  4. Cut the blackberry gelée into desired shapes; store, chilled.
For the Vanilla Panna Cotta
  1. Soak the gelatin sheet in ice water for 10 minutes, then squeeze dry.
  2. In a small saucepan, combine the crème fraîche, vanilla seeds, and sugar; bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and stir in the gelatin until dissolved. Pass through a fine-meshed sieve and pour onto a flat, rimmed tray or baking dish to reach a thickness of approximately ¼ inch. Refrigerate until set, and cut into desired shapes. Store, chilled.
For the Whipped Crème Fraîche
  1. Up to 1 hour before serving, whip the crème fraîche and sugar to stiff peaks. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a large tip
To Finish
  1. For each serving, set a disc of meringue on a chilled dessert plate and top with a portion of sorbet. Top with another meringue disc and pipe dollops of crème fraîche cream on top. Sprinkle the top with meringue dots. Garnish around the vacherin with blackberry pearls, blackberry gelée, vanilla panna cotta, and 3 fresh blackberries.