CRAYFISH TIMBALE COCKSCOMBS, WATERCRESS VELOUTÉ
THIS THOROUGHLY modern dish in fact revisits a legendary Bresse classic, Alain Chapel’s gâteau de foies blonds aux écrevisses. When the garnish plays as important a role as the soup, I feel that we have elevated the dish into a complete experience. Each crayfish tail sits atop a chicken ballotine, made with deboned chicken wings filled with crayfish-chicken mousse, while crispy cockscombs add a contrast in texture. The brightly colored watercress soup is just bitter enough to counter the sweetness of the crayfish and black garlic.
Servings
4
Servings
4
Ingredients
Cockscomb Tempura
Crayfish Timbales
Chicken Wing Ballotine
Watercress Velouté (makes 1½ quarts)
Morels and Fava Beans
To Finish
Instructions
For the Cockscomb Tempura
  1. Drain the cockscombs and place them in a large saucepan with the chicken stock, onion, carrot, garlic, sachet, wine, and salt and bring to a light simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 hours, or until the cockscombs are tender. Remove from the heat and cool in the liquid. Store in the liquid, chilled.
For the Crayfish Timbales
  1. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
  2. Rinse the crayfish very well under cold water. Pour 2 cups of the court bouillon into a bowl placed over ice. Transfer the remaining court bouillon to a large pot and bring to a boil. Boil the crayfish in 5 separate batches for 30 seconds each, allowing the court bouillon to return to a full boil between batches. While the crayfish are still hot, twist the tails from the bodies. Crack open the back of the tails and pull out the meat with one hand, while pinching the middle section of the fin with the other hand to devein them (the vein should slide out and remain attached to the fin). Reserve the shells. Transfer the tail meat to the chilled court bouillon and stir until cold. Use a paring knife to neatly trim the thick ends of 24 of the tails and reserve them, chilled. Chop the trim and remaining 12 tails for the mousse (below); reserve, chilled.
  3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine the crayfish shells, heads, claws, and butter and mix on medium speed for 5 minutes, or until broken down into a mash. Transfer to a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Cover and transfer to the oven. Bake for 30 minutes, or until deep red and aromatic and the butter stops forming bubbles. Carefully strain the butter through a fine-meshed sieve into a heatproof container. Refrigerate undisturbed for at least 4 hours, or until the butter separates from the liquid and solidifies on top. Scrape the butter from the top into a medium saucepan; discard the liquid from the bottom. Melt the butter over medium heat, then pass through a fine-meshed sieve lined with cheesecloth and keep warm.
  4. Chill the bowl and blade of a food processor. Add the chicken breast, chicken liver, and salt, and pulse until pasty. Add the pepper, piment d’Espelette, and egg white and combine well. With the machine running, stream in ½ cup of the heavy cream and sherry to form a smooth mousse. Pass the mousse through a drum sieve and fold in the reserved chopped crayfish. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 5 hours, or overnight. In a small bowl, whip the remaining 3 tablespoons heavy cream to medium peaks. Fold into the mousse and chill again for at least another 20 minutes or up to 2 hours. Transfer the mousse to piping bags.
  5. To form the timbales, place 2 crayfish tails in the bottom of each of twelve metal 1-inch-tall mini timbale molds with a ¾-inch-diameter rim. Pipe approximately 1 tablespoon of the mousse in each mold; reserve the remaining mousse for the chicken wing ballotine. Add ½ teaspoon of warm crayfish butter to each mold. Reserve the timbales and the remaining butter, chilled.
For the Chicken Wing Ballotine
  1. With an immersion circulator, preheat a water bath to 144°F. Chop the tips off the bones on both ends of the chicken wings. Carefully push out the bones and discard them. Pipe about ½ tablespoon reserved mousse into the center of each wing. Season the wings with salt and pepper. With plastic wrap, roll each wing tightly into a ¾-inch-diameter log and tie the ends to seal. Submerge the logs in the prepared water bath and cook for 1 hour. Transfer to the refrigerator until chilled, then trim each chicken wing into 3 equal discs. Reserve, chilled.
For the Watercress Velouté
  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and place a bowl of ice water on the side. Add the watercress and parsley leaves and boil for 45 seconds. Transfer to the ice water to chill; squeeze dry. Pour the cream into a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Combine the watercress, parsley, and hot cream in a blender and puree until smooth; season with salt and pepper. Pass the watercress cream through a fine-meshed sieve into a bowl set over ice and stir until chilled.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the onion, leek, bouquet garni, and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the onion is translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the potato and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in the crème fraîche. Carefully transfer the mixture to a blender (you may need to do this in batches) and puree until smooth; season with salt and pepper. Pass through a fine-meshed sieve and reserve, chilled.
  3. Just before serving, reheat the soup and whisk the watercress cream. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if needed.
For the Morels and Fava Beans
  1. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil and set a bowl of ice water on the side. Boil the fava beans for 2 minutes, or until tender, and then chill in the ice water. Peel the beans.
  2. To clean the morels, submerge them in a bowl of cold water, leave for 2 minutes, strain from the top, and repeat until the water that settles at the bottom is clear. Strain and pat dry with a towel. Melt the butter in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Add the morels, sprinkle with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and simmer until the morels are cooked and the liquid has reduced to a glaze, about 5 minutes. Slice each morel into 3 rings and return to the pan. Add the fava beans and toss to heat through. Check the seasoning and reserve, kept warm.
To Finish
  1. Fill one-third of a medium saucepan with canola oil and heat to 350°F. Melt the reserved crayfish butter.
  2. Place a slice of chicken wing ballotine inside each crayfish timbale to top it off. Pour ½ inch of water in a large medium saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat, stand the timbales inside, cover with aluminum foil, and cook for 15 minutes at just under a simmer.
  3. Strain and pat dry the cockscombs; individually dip them into the tempura batter. Fry for 1 minute, or until golden brown. Transfer to a paper towel–lined tray and sprinkle with salt.
  4. For each serving, unmold 3 timbales and arrange crayfish side up in the bottom of a soup bowl. Top each timbale with a slice of black garlic and place a piece of fried cockscomb on top. Alternate 3 morel rings topped with a fava bean between the timbales. Pour in the soup and garnish with a few dots of crayfish butter. Arrange 3 leaves of wild chervil against the timbales.