SOFT-SHELL CRAB TEMPURA LEMON GREMOLATA, PICKLED FRESNO PEPPERS
IT’S A LONG AND PASSIONATE affair between the Maryland soft-shell crab and me. Since they are indigenous to the New World, I’d never seen any until I came to the United States, but it was love at first bite. Then, every year in late spring, I would hop a plane to see my parents in Lyon and surreptitiously smuggle on board a bag of five or six dozen of the live creatures, ever so carefully packed. They traveled well and the next day, I would cook them for my whole family. What a rare feast!
I often like them very crunchy, as in this recipe, wrapped in tempura batter but still tender and juicy at the core, with a peppery gremolata dressing and adorned with wild foraged Golden Alexander flowers.