VEAL KIDNEY À LA GRAISSE ;MUSTARD SEEDS, BLACK RADISH, BUTTER LETTUCE
I ENJOY TEASING our diners with dishes that they may not expect in a Michelin three-star restaurant, such as this kidney preparation. It is an homage to Alain Chapel, one of the pillars of starred nouvelle cuisine in the 1970s, who was known in culinary circles around the world for his simple but majestic dishes. Chapel was a champion of game and offal and was known for a fabulous rognon à la graisse. Roasted at high heat, the meat is protected by the fat, which doesn’t melt but encases all the flavors. I feel that rognon or kidney calls for acidity and jazz, and I present it here with crushed pepper and mustard seeds. There’s a real love affair between the French and their mustard!
“Veal kidneys (rognons) are an integral part of the cuisine lyonnaise. La Mère Brazier, the first woman to receive three Michelin stars, in 1933, and who once hired an apprentice named Paul Bocuse, was rumored to serve the best in the region.”